Flow Training – Maximising Performance in Rock Climbing – Case Study

Flow Training – Maximising Performance in Rock Climbing – Case Study

We are delighted to announce some great results on a recent study with rock climbers receiving flow training. The climbers received 4 different types of training over a 3 month period and the results far exceeded our expectations.

Below is Camille’s account of what happened. Camille is a budding adventure enthusiast who competes in a multitude of sports and a true inspiration. She runs a great blog for those wanting to see how she quit her job to focus on a life worth living: http://www.farandhigh.co.uk/

Over to Camille and her a piece, she wrote to go on her blog.

I was delighted when Cameron, the training coach from the Flow Centre, offered me to be part of the group of elite climbers selected for a case study on flow training.

Initially, I didn’t know what the flow mindset was and it is thanks to the study that I learnt more about it.

Flow is the optimal mental state that produces performance, creativity, decision-making and innovation.”

Flow is a psychological state we experience during our peak experiences and is behind many of the greatest athletic performances.  It is the state when we perform at our best and feel our best.

As part of the study, the climbers were asked to complete the same indoor climbing route twice a week, time ourselves and then complete a questionnaire straight after each climb including questions on our performance and our flow state.  We were also asked to rate our overall climb.  As weeks progressed, we were provided with training and individual coaching sessions on flow.

camilee2

Throughout this experience, I’ve learnt some great tips on how to train your mind to get into the flow state and how to maintain that state. I thought I’d share the most valuable ones to me.

  1. Motivation to perform

For me, motivation to perform is the biggest contributor to get me into a flow state, i.e. the desire to get to the top of the route.  When the motivation is missing, my performance suffers.  When the motivation is at its best and I truly want to reach the top, I’m enjoying the moment and I give it me all.

  1. Total Focus

Secondly, finding focus is key to get me in the right state of mind.  I need to completely shut down the outside world around me.  For example, I need to ignore other climbers watching or shouting tips during a training session (sorry, I know you’re only trying to help J).  This is especially true during a climbing competition when I find the audience very unnerving and it makes me anxious.  So I need to completely zone out my surroundings and forget about my ego, so I can totally concentrate on the task at hand.

  1. Be in the Present

To reach and maintain flow, I need to be completely focused on the present moment. I can’t be thinking about anything else other than each move as it unfolds.  If I’m already thinking about reaching the top whilst I’m only half way up, my mind is not in the present.

  1. Challenging Route

The climb has to be challenging enough for me to get into the flow state.  If it is during the warm-up or an easy climb, it’s not motivating enough for me to really be in the flow.

  1. Physical Readiness & Self belief

I’ve found that my perception of my physical fitness and readiness to climb a route has an impact on my ability to reach and maintain the flow state. If I feel physically ready and capable, then I feel in control and there are no limits!

  1. Fear of falling

When I have reached the flow state, I am so focused on each move that there is no holding back and I forget about the fear of falling (even in the dreaded overhangs!).

With the help of our coach Cameron, I have come up with my climbing mantra which I now repeat to myself at the start of each climb, and sometimes in the middle:

  1. Focus
  2. Precision
  3. Power
  4. Excel

Repeating the mantra in my mind has been very effective to help me get into the flow when everything seems to come together and I perform to my highest standard.

camille

To conclude, my personal results from the route I climbed during the study are:

  • Route: 14m 6C+ route
  • 1st attempt completed in 9min23s.
  • After having received the training and coaching on flows, I completed the climbing route on my 15thattempt in 2min10s.

Of course, once I knew my results, my first question was related to the fact that even without the coaching, my performance would have improved naturally just by the experience gained by every attempt and the increased memorization of the moves.  However, this was minimised by having us only start the training and coaching on flows once our performances had plateaued and we weren’t climbing faster at each attempt.

Finally, being part of the study and learning about applying flows for sporting performance was definitely eye opening and a great opportunity for me in the pursuit of following my passion for the sport and performing the best I can.

These techniques can, of course, be applied to any experiences in life.  I’m also currently working on applying these techniques to my running and learning to find the flow state during a run J  So I’ve now created a mantra for running as well …

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